Shred's Gruit Ale (Hop-free and Gluten-Free)

If you're new to my blog, I recommend you start at the beginning to have the opportunity to truly learn from my mistakes and laugh at my failures.

My intro post can be found here:

Intro & My First Home Beer Brewing Kit

From there you can navigate forward using the Archive on the right side of the page.

Click the "Recipes" tab at the top of the page to see my entire list of original recipes and tasting notes.

Shred's Gruit (Hopless, Gluten-Free) Ale(extract)

Description:

A friend of mine suddenly found herself violently allergic to hops a couple years ago.  She missed beer dearly and, hearing of my recent brewing addiction, asked me if there was a way I could brew a beer without hops... and oh, she also can't have barley due to a gluten intolerance.

Now, by most definitions beer can have all sorts of additional ingredients, but there are 4 which are absolute requirements;  Barley, Hops, Water and Yeast.  I'd been tasked with brewing something missing 2 of these crucial ingredients.

After a lot of asking around and a lot of research, I found that people had moderate success in replacing hops in beer and people had moderate success in brewing gluten-free, but there were virtually no examples of the 2 combined.

The first batch I brewed was horribly bitter and undrinkable.  I'll spare you that recipe.  Below is one that, while different than what you might think of as beer, was good enough to satisfy the cravings of a beer-drinker who'd been without for a couple years.


Batch Size:  5.25 Gallons
Measured Original Gravity: 1.055 SG
Measured Final Gravity: 1.012 SG
ABV:  5.6%


Recipe:

6 lbs 9.6 oz Sorghum Syrup [Boil for 60 min]

0.25 oz Juniper Berries (Boil 60.0 mins)
0.10 oz Wormwood (Boil 60.0 mins)

1 lbs Liquid Candi Sugar, Dark [Boil for 15 minutes]

1 Whirlflock Tablet (Boil 10.0 mins)

8.00 oz Malto-Dextrine (Boil 5.0 mins)

0.25 oz Orange Peel, Bitter (Boil 5.0 mins)

0.25 Cup Heather Tips (Boil 0.0 mins)

1.0 pkg Windsor Yeast (Lallemand)

Carbonated to 2.3 vols of CO2 (about 3.9 oz corn sugar)

Tasting Notes:

An interesting flavor.  Not what I'd call a normal beer, but not undrinkable either.  The sorghum is well masked by the dark fruit flavors from the Candi Sugar.  Light to medium-light body.  Balanced flavor, though the bitterness isn't quite hop bitterness.  It'll satisfy the craving if you happen to be unable to ingest barley and hops but still want a beer(?).

Shred's Raspberry Wheat Champagne Ale 1

If you're new to my blog, I recommend you start at the beginning to have the opportunity to truly learn from my mistakes and laugh at my failures.

My intro post can be found here:

Intro & My First Home Beer Brewing Kit

From there you can navigate forward using the Archive on the right side of the page.

Click the "Recipes" tab at the top of the page to see my entire list of original recipes and tasting notes.

Shred's Raspberry Wheat Champagne Ale

Description:

An extract brew with frozen raspberries used in secondary.  This brew was, while unusual, very popular... especially among friends who claimed not to be beer drinkers.  It's light, bubbly, colorful and fruity.  I bottled it in Grolsch bottles, which popped like a champagne bottle when opened, and served in champagne flutes.  A huge success for my second original recipe and something so experimental.  Some people still say it was my best yet (as I type this a year later).

Batch Size:  3 Gallons
Measured Original Gravity: 1.054 SG
Measured Final Gravity: 1.008 SG
ABV:  < 6%.  Impossible to accurately calculate due to use of fermentable fruit


Recipe:

1 lbs 9.6 oz Wheat Dry Extract [Boil for 60 min]
1 lbs 8.0 oz Pilsner Liquid Extract [Boil for 60 min]
12.0 oz Corn Sugar (Boil 5 minutes)

1.00 oz Hallertauer [4.80 %] - Boil 60.0 min
0.50 oz Crystal [3.50 %] - Boil 15.0 min

1.0 pkg American Wheat Ale (Wyeast Labs #1010)

4 lbs Fruit - Frozen Raspberries (Secondary)
Pectic Enzyme was added to secondary to break down the pectin in the fruit.

1 lb Lactose added into bottling bucket (for sweetening)

Carbonated to 3.3 vols of CO2 (about 3.6 oz corn sugar)

(This is what 4 lbs of raspberries looks like after fermentation.)

Tasting Notes:

A fruity brew reminiscent of champagne in body and flavor.  Bright pink to red color (note the beer in the siphon above).  The raspberries lend a fair amount of sour flavor balanced by the lactose.  The corn sugar used in the boil helps thin the body down to something more like a light Brut.  Very effervescent and the 6-8% ABV is well-hidden.  This light-bodied, refreshing, easy drinking beer can be dangerous!

Shred's Irish Mocha Stout Extract Recipe

If you're new to my blog, I recommend you start at the beginning to have the opportunity to truly learn from my mistakes and laugh at my failures.

My intro post can be found here:
Intro & My First Home Beer Brewing Kit

From there you can navigate forward using the Archive on the right side of the page.


Click the "Recipes" tab at the top of the page to see my entire list of original recipes and tasting notes.

Shred's Irish Mocha Stout #1:(6 Gallon Batch)


Ingredients

Malt:

Mountmellick Irish Stout Hopped Malt Extract & Yeast Kit (4 lbs)

Northwestern Dark Malt Extract (3.3 lbs)

Hops:

1 oz Willamette pellets

Adjuncts:

8-10 fl. oz. strong, cold-brewed espresso

4 oz. cocoa nibs

Step-by-step:

Boiled extracts for 60 minutes.

Willamette pellets in muslin sock added for last 10 minutes of boil.

Moved to fermenting bucket and topped to 6 gallons with cold tap water.

Cooled to 78F.

Primary - 7.8 Gallon bucket with airlock

OG = 1.042

Pitched at 78F

1 week at ~68-70F

Boiled (3) pint-sized canning jars.

Left jars 2/3 filled with boiled water, capped and chilled overnight.

Added 2-3 ounces of course-ground espresso beans to each jar.

Allowed to steep for 48 hours.

Secondary - 6 Gallon Carboy with airlock

SG = 1.022

Cocoa nibs & cold brewed coffee added
(I put a sanitized coffee filter over my funnel to keep grounds out)

1 week at ~68-70F

SG was stuck at around 1.022 - added champagne yeast with minimal (maybe 1 point) success.
In the future I will not use the yeast packet that comes with extract kits.

FG - ~1.022

Bottled to 2.3 vols CO2 with 4.5 oz corn sugar.

Bottle conditioned for 5 weeks.

Tasting notes:

Not sweet despite the high FG.
Definitely noticeable coffee flavors, but not overbearing.
Cocoa notes are there, but more might be nice.
A little metallic flavor, but not so much as to taste "off".  In earlier tastes this was more prevalent.  Maybe this flavor will age out. (edit - a year later and it still hasn't.  I blame the unfiltered tap water that was used).
Very little lacing on the glass.
In future revisions I may tweak this one to make it slightly creamier using lactose.
Might have been better kegged and carbed with nitrogen.
All-in-all, I'd call it a success for a first attempt and just in time for St. Patty's Day!

Everything You Need To Start Brewing Beer

If you're new to my blog, I recommend you start at the beginning to have the opportunity to truly learn from my mistakes and laugh at my failures.

My intro post can be found here:
Intro & My First Home Beer Brewing Kit

From there you can navigate forward using the Archive on the right side of the page.




February 28, 2013

What Should I Buy?

(everything new brewers need to get started)

Since diving headlong into this new addiction, I've annoyed a lot of people with my constant Facebook updates.  I've also intrigued some.  People have started asking me how to go about getting started and what is the minimum equipment they should have.

If you read my first post you know that I started with a $100 kit for Christmas.  You also know I immediately began purchasing additional equipment.  I've since lost my job, my car, sold my house and pimped out my girlfriend to cover the costs of my "hobby".  Okay - only some of those are true.

This post will give you my opinion of what equipment is absolutely necessary and what equipment might make life a lot easier, but you can get away with not purchasing (or building) right away.

I've included links to view and/or purchase this equipment from my preferred online brew supply store, Adventures In Home Brewing.

1)  Fermentation & Bottling Vessels - Buckets, Carboys & Accessories:

  

Obviously you need somewhere to ferment your beer.  The standard beginner setup would be a 7.9 gallon primary fermentation bucket and a second, smaller (6 or 6.5 gallon) bottling bucket with spigot.  While you can get away with just a single bucket, you may have some issues with the clarity of your beer if you're bottling off the puddle to sludge (aka trub) that settles after fermentation.  In my opinion, a second vessel is required.

You'll need a grommetted lid and an airlock for your primary to keep contaminants out.

Additionally, you may opt to purchase buckets and carboys in different sizes to act as secondary vessels and for different size batches.  The more the merrier.  

When racking to a secondary, remember that oxygen is not your friend.  Reducing head space to a minimum, by racking to a vessel that holds very close to the exact volume of wort to be racked is ideal (unless continuing fermentation in secondary through adjuncts like fruit or added sugars/fermentables which will create a new CO2 blanket).

Required:

7.8 Gallon Primary Fermenting Bucket (with grommetted lid)
6.5 Gallon Secondary / Bottling Bucket (hole cut for spigot)
Airlock (I use 3-piece, any standard airlock is fine)
Spigot (for bottling)
Racking Cane & Siphon Hose (for transferring between vessels)

Optional:

Heat Pad (if you need warmer fermentation than your room temp)
Glass Carboys (varying sizes available)
Auto Siphon (makes racking MUCH easier)
Adhesive Thermometers (for monitoring fermentation temps)

2)  Brewing Equipment:

At minimum you'll need a place to boil your wort.  Any large stainless steel (or aluminum) pot will do.  Beyond that there are a lot of nifty gadgets that can save time and reduce the risk of contaminants getting into your cooling concoction and make cleanup easier. 

Required:

Stainless Steel Brew Pot (the bigger the better... less chance of a boiled-over mess)

Optional:

Long Plastic or Stainless Steel Spoon (do you need to ask?)
Muslin Bags (kinda like tea bags for hops and grains to keep the mess out of your wort)
Wort Chiller (cools your wort to pitching temp very quickly...  adapter may be needed**)
Strainer (scoop the floaties off your wort before it is put into the fermentation vessel)
Floating Thermometer (for monitoring mash/steeping temps)
Scale (for weighing ingredients)

3)  Cleaning & Sanitizing:

When it comes to brewing successfully, cleanliness is godliness.  The best beer in the world can easily be ruined with poor sanitizing practices.  You will, at least, need a sanitizing concentrate for your bottles, buckets and anything that comes in contact with your beer/wort. I'm sure you've got sponges and rags kicking around that can be used for basic cleanup.  Spray bottles are great for misting sanitizer onto surfaces and equipment.

If recycling bottles (they aren't cheap), there are a bunch of accessories which I think border on required, but I will list as optional.

Required:

Sanitizer (I use StarSan)

Optional:

Cleanser (you don't want to use regular soap. OxyClean can work, however.)
Bottle Tree (hang clean bottles upside down to dry)
Bottle Washer (blasts inside of bottles with water from your tap... adapter may be needed**)
Carboy Washer (makes it easy to spray out gunk from the bottom of your carboys)
Vinator Bottle Washer (shoots sanitizer solution into your bottles)
Bottle Brush (for scrubbing out dirty bottles... they come in carboy size as well)

4)  Bottling:

Whether you buy them or recycle and reuse them, you need bottles.  There are a few different types.  I'll list all as optional since you may or may not opt to purchase them brand new, but rather acquire them in other ways. A typical 5 gallon batch will fill roughly 50 bottles.

As for the actual process of bottling, you've got your bucket with spigot above and I use the siphon hose that I racked with on the bottling spigot.  Otherwise, caps and a way to apply them is all you need.

Required:

Caps (varying colors available)
Bottle Capper (there are different types... I use the red one)
Bottling Wand (easily fill bottles without splashing and stop when full with spring tip)

Optional:

12 Ounce Glass Bottles (brown is preferred as it keeps light out)
Growlers (varying sizes and colors)
Swing Top Bottles (I recycle Grolsch bottles)
Growler Caps (varying sizes)
Replacement Swing Tops (gaskets are available separately as well)
Cases (milk crates and empty commercial beer cases/boxes work fine as well)

5)  Testing & Miscellaneous:

You'll want to be able to calculate your beer's alcohol content and monitor fermentation progress.  While you can just drop your sanitized hydrometer right in your fermenter, it's recommended you extract a sample to reduce the risk of contamination and oxidization.

Required:

Hydrometer (for measuring gravity and calculating alcohol content)

Optional:

Test Jar (holds a beer sample for hydrometer reading)
Thief (this nifty gadget allows you to remove a small sample from a bucket or carboy)
Stir Plate - Yeast Starter Kit (One one thing I learned early on is that pitching a healthy yeast colony is crucial to brewing good beer.  A stir plate setup allows you to quickly build a healthy yeast colony from a yeast starter. I recommend against using an airlock with the starter, however.  You want air exchange as the colony reproduces.  A sanitized piece of foil placed loosely over the top is better).



** Watch out for those adapters!  Mine put about a dozen bloody razor blade slices in my hand before I even knew it was happening.  I now use a rubber kitchen glove anytime I need to remove or attach it.



I hope you found this helpful.  Please feel free to share with your friends.  If you think I missed something that should be on this list, please let me know!  Until next time...

First Taste of My First Home Brewed Beer (mini post)

If you're new to my blog, I recommend you start at the beginning to have the opportunity to truly learn from my mistakes and laugh at my failures.

My intro post can be found here:
Intro & My First Home Beer Brewing Kit

From there you can navigate forward using the Archive on the right side of the page.




January 16, 2013

My First Taste!

I've been reading a lot about when I can expect my first brew to be ready for drinking.  In my reading I've seen a number of people suggest that newbies to the beer brewing hobby (like me) should take samples along the way to get a feel for how a beer ages.

As you know, my beer went into bottles about a week and a half ago.  I let them age for 1 week in a dark, cool closet in the basement.  After that week was up, they were moved into a mini fridge.

Today I finally gave in and took a sample.  Upon opening it, I was greeted with a friendly hiss and bubbles climbing up the neck.  Yay!  Carbonation!

I poured the bottle into a glass to see what my beer looks like.  You could literally float a cap on this head and the color was a gorgeous, cloudy, golden-brown.

Or is that caramel-copper-brown??

The beer had a pleasant smell.  Not overly hoppy and a bit yeasty and sweet to the nose.

The taste was bitter and earthy, though not much upfront hop flavor.  The finish (that would be a fancy word for aftertaste) was very yeasty.  Probably not a beer I would buy at the liquor store more than once, but again - it's still very premature.

I think it's safe to assume that over the next couple weeks my brew will continue to mature.  Some of the yeastiness will give way to other more subtle flavors and I may end up with a really tasty drink!

Edit - It didn't last long enough to find out.  It was all imbibed within 3 weeks.  Hopefully you have more willpower than I did!

Up Next:

In my next adventure I begin my first 2-stage fermentation and create my own custom recipe for an Irish Mocha Stout!!  

Please subscribe and share this blog with your friends!

Bottling Time

If you're new to my blog, I recommend you start at the beginning to have the opportunity to truly learn from my mistakes and laugh at my failures.

My intro post can be found here:
Intro & My First Home Beer Brewing Kit

From there you can navigate forward using the Archive on the right side of the page.




January 5, 2013

It's Bottling Time!

In my last post we went over some of the things I'd learned up to the fermentation process.  The learning doesn't stop there.  Though it sounds a simple enough task, bottling my beer became a whole new challenge.

Most home brewed beer is bottle conditioned and aged.  In this process sugar is added to the fermented wort and then sealed in bottles.  The yeast in the beer goes to town on the new supply of sugar and creates the bubbles (CO2) and clarifies the beer over the course of weeks or months.

The excessive bubbles are the only way you can tell this is beer and not pee.

1.  Sanitize Tools

I mentioned previously that my "dual purpose" fermenting/bottling bucket was in fact, not dual purpose.  So, I will be siphoning the beer out of this bucket and into a new bottling bucket I ordered.

Here are the tools I'll be using:
Racking cane
Siphon / Racking hose
Bottling Bucket
Bottle capper

Had I done this right, I'd be using my "Theif" to extract a bit of the beer and my hydrometer to calculate the alcohol content.  But, as previously mentioned, I neglected to take a hydrometer reading before pitching the yeast, so a more manual method will be used.... Drink until I fall down.  Then try to remember how many beers it took.  I can compare these results with those of a beer with known alcohol content and calculate accordingly.

Based on my calculations, this beer is 5.4% but the urinal cake could be skewing things.

2.  Sanitize Bottles & Caps

In my last post I gave you some shortcuts.  One of those was using the dishwasher on high temp wash and sanitizing rince to easily sanitize your bottles.  Caps can be boiled or soaked in a cheap vodka or no-rinse sanitizer solution (or, if you're me, you can forget to sanitize them altogether and hope your beer isn't spoiled).

Edit - While I've found this method to be great for initial sanitizing after de-labeling and de-molding recycled bottles, I will be using StarSan no-rinse sanitizer and a vinator bottle washer.  This method is at least as simple and proven fail-proof.

We'll get to my excuse for forgetting to sanitize the caps in a minute.  For now, just know that you should.

Dishes are done!

3.  Prepare Bottling Sugar

In most cases this is done by boiling a couple cups of water and dissolving corn (aka brewer's) sugar in it (usually between 3-5 ounces for 5 gallons, but follow your recipe).  My friends over at www.HomeBrewTalk.com suggested that this solution be dumped into the bottom of the bottling bucket and the siphon hose be sort of curved or half coiled to create a whirlpool effect.  This "whirlpool" will allow the sugar to be evenly mixed with the beer as it siphons in.

Yeah.  That's dissolved sugar.  Not every picture can be of a guy in urinal.

4. Siphon

Now we use our racking cane to siphon beer out of the fermenting bucket and into the bottling bucket.  The bottom of the cane has a little foot which is intended to hold the siphon above the nasty puddle of sludge at the bottom of your fermenting bucket.  Once I got the siphon started, this was no problem.  There was a fair amount of swearing involved in starting the siphon in a sanitary manner, however.  I've since ordered an Auto Siphon.  This should result in a drastic reduction of obscenities.

Splashing is bad as it introduces oxygen and potential contaminants into the beer, so your partially coiled siphon hose in the bottom of the bucket is ideal for this reason as well.

Stop looking at the box of wine... I never claimed to have class!

5.  Bottle & Cap

I've never used a bottle capper before, so I figured I'd test this red contraption out.  At a glance it seems simple enough.  Place the cap on the magnet in the capper, place the capper on the bottle, squeeze.  Yeah... that's how it's supposed to work.  I spent 15 minutes without a single success before turning to internet videos for help.  They, of course, showed exactly what I was doing.  

I'm pretty sure I invented some new swear words here.  Now I've got 5 gallons of beer that won't make it into bottles because I don't possess the necessary coordination to cap... wait, what's this brass thing?

Hmm... it has a jagged piece of red plastic on it.  That's the same color red as the cap... Damn it!  It's broken!  (The company who sold us this kit will be receiving a not-so-nice email).

How many 4-letter words do you know?  I bet I have you beat.

I now know that the piece that was broken off is called the "bell housing".  When super glue failed to have the necessary bond I opted to try just positioning the housing and cap over the bottle and guiding the capper down onto the bottle.  By the grace of all that is holy, it worked!

I don't think there are any videos on the internet for this.

Yes - the above is why I forgot to sanitize the caps.  After all this, I pray that the beer gods will smile upon me and not harm my beer!  We'll find out in a few weeks.

Edit - They did!

Anyway - At this point I'm exhausted and the lady friend is ready to have me committed.  Fortunately it was smooth sailing from here.  She bottled the beer (leaving no more than an inch and a half of air in the neck) and I capped.  We ended up with about 2 cases.

My drinking problem means she can't afford pants without holes.

The beer was transported to a closet in the basement for a week and then moved to a mini fridge to continue to age for another 2-3 weeks.  I should have (drinkable?) beer just in time for the Super Bowl.

Edit - Your beer should be left for a MINIMUM of 2.5 weeks at room temp to properly carbonate and condition.

It may not look like much, but this nearly killed me!

Up Next:

In my next adventure I begin my first 2-stage fermentation and create my own custom recipe for an Irish Mocha Stout!!  

Please subscribe and share this blog with your friends!

What I've Learned (Some tips & Shortcuts) - Part 1

If you're new to my blog, I recommend you start at the beginning to have the opportunity to truly learn from my mistakes and laugh at my failures.

My intro post can be found here:
Intro & My First Home Beer Brewing Kit

From there you can navigate forward using the Archive on the right side of the page.



What I've Learned:

I dove headlong into brewing with no past experience and only limited guidance.
Naturally, hindsight being 20/20, I made some mistakes and I've learned some things.

My hope is this post will help you to:

1. Not make the same mistakes I did.
2. Learn some shortcuts and ways to save money.

1.  Learn from my mistakes!

#1  Hydrometer Readings

Take a hydrometer reading before pitching your yeast and sealing the wort up in your fermenter.  I didn't and now I will not be able to accurately determine the alcohol content of my first beer.  Here is a great article with very detailed instructions:  http://mikesbrewreview.com/how-to-use-a-hydrometer/

ABV Calculation:
OG = Original Gravity
FG = Final Gravity

(OG - FG) * 131 = ABV%

Example:
OG = 1.055
FG = 1.010

(1.055-1.010) * 131 = 5.895%

#2 Equipment

Be sure you have ALL the equipment you will need before you get started.  I love my new equipment kit, but upon discussing my project with my new friends at www.homebrewtalk.com and what I've picked up from my reading it would seem I'd have a pretty nasty beer if I used the combo fermenting / bottling bucket for both purposes.  I'd have been okay if I'd fermented in the 6 gallon carboy that came with the kit, but I didn't.  I've since ordered a new bottling bucket which I will siphon beer into from the combo bucket at bottling time.  It's not a total loss, however. I intend to run more than one batch of beer at a time, so the added equipment will be useful.

Edit - There are probably upwards of 20 various, available fermenting, conditioning and bottling vessels in my garage 1 year after this was written.  Beware - this IS an addiction.

Take a look at my new "Buy Equipment" page for some great starter kits.

#3 This Is Addicting!

If you find the idea of making your own beer intriguing, be warned, you will not satiate that craving with a single brew kit.  The minute your first wort goes into your fermenting vessel, you'll be itching for more!  My advice would be to get your feet wet with a complete, 1 stage brew ingredient kit, as I did.  This will allow you to get a feel for the process of brewing and will have minimal risk of failure (as long as you're sanitary!).

Once that batch is fermenting and you've studied up and understand what your next steps are, feel free to begin planning your next adventure.  You have my blessing.

Shortcuts and $avings

#1  Save Money on Bottles

After paying nearly $30 for the bottles I'd need for my first batch, I decided to find a more economical route.  After all, if (when) I brew more than one batch at a time, I'll need more bottles.  It's also safe to assume some bottles won't be returned or will break.

What was my trick?  I put on layers of my best filthy ripped clothes, a dirty knit hat, fingerless gloves, found a shopping cart, and walked around the city picking bottles up out of ditches and trashcans.

Will work for booze!

Actually, I just went to the local redemption center and asked them if I could buy some bottles from them.  They agreed to let me take whatever I wanted for $0.15 per bottle... roughly 1/4 of what I paid for the new bottles (you can ask at your local liquor store too or just save your empties).

UPDATE - As of the end of February I now have nearly 75 Grolsch Bottles and 10 cases of brown bottles all cleaned and de-labeled.  This was a combination of saving my own empties and what I was able to find at the redemption center.

Total cost savings is somewhere in the $250-$300 range... not bad for a half hour here and there over 2 months.

#2  Bottles From The Redemption Center Are Gross!

Great, so I found a way to save money on bottles... Moldy bottles with a little bit of a stranger's backwash in each one.  Now I have to make these something I want in my mouth.

I never liked Sam's Oktoberfest.  Maybe it's better this way?

Here's how I cleaned & sanitized them:

1. Submerge bottles in deep basin sink filled with warm water.
2. Put about 1 scoop up to the "1" line of Oxy Clean per 3-4 gallons of water in the sink.
3. Allow bottles to soak for 30-40 minutes.
4. Easily peel labels off and wipe off glue/residue with stainless steel scrubber pad.
5. Use bottle brush to scrub out inside of bottles.  I bent mine in the middle so I could easily spin it with my finger and hang it over the edge of the sink.
6. Rinse thoroughly (I bought a bottle washer similar to this one).

This task sucks, but if you are willing to put the effort in, you'll have clean, reusable bottles at a fraction of the cost of new.

Edit - Do not over-soak in the Oxy Clean solution or it will create a residue that is virtually impossible to get off... one more mistake of mine you can learn from.

Should this happen to you, a soak in a vinegar/water bath will remove the (beer stone?) residue.

Finally they went into the dishwasher (no detergent) on High Temp Wash and Sanitizing Rinse... a great shortcut if you have a dishwasher with these options.

I hear you can clean plates and stuff in here too.

UPDATE - There is some debate on the effectiveness of using the dishwasher to sanitize as everyones' water runs at different temps and it can be difficult for the hot water to make it into the bottles' narrow openings.

I've since purchased a Vinator Bottle Washer which I fill with StarSan solution and use immediately before bottling.

NOTE - If your bottles don't have mold or sediment in them you can give them a 30 minute bath in a mix of baking soda and hot water and the labels peel just as easily.  This does NOT sanitize or work well with really dirty bottles, however.

#3 Drink Grolsch

Grolsch bottles are freakin' awesome.  They have that nifty, flip top thing, they're fancy looking and they're perfect for bottling a pint (just shy, actually) of home brew.  Fliptop bottles sell for $1-$2 each or you can get them for $2.50 filled with not-terrible beer.  I've opted for the latter.  It's all I've bought for the last week and my collection is coming along nicely.

Edit - Green glass is not ideal.  It allows too much light to get into the bottle.  If you use green glass be sure to store your bottles out of the light.  I now only use Grolsch bottles for quick transport of kegged beer.

The only problem is it's so much fun opening them I can't stop drinking!

#4 Use Water Jugs As Carboys

Yep - those water cooler jugs can be re-purposed for making beer.  There is some debate on this topic, but the general consensus is that this is a safe, cheap alternative to expensive glass carboys.  The catch is you need to be sure you're using a safe plastic.  Look at the bottom of the jug and figure out what type of plastic it's made of (the number inside the recycling triangle thing).

Here is a link explaining the different types of plastics and which are considered safe www.wikihow.com/Identify-Food-Grade-Buckets

I grabbed a 5 gallon Nestle water jug (#1) for $5.99 + $5 deposit.  I'll use the water to make a batch of beer, so I basically get a carboy for $5.  Your local brew supply store should have stoppers that will fit.

Edit:  I've heard a lot of more mixed reviews on this.  Even some links to baby boys being born with "teenie weenies" because of their pregnant mothers' exposure to BPAs.  This terrifying thought combined with the fact plastic scratches easier (thus better harboring bacteria), has me steered me away from recycled water bottles.  That said - those numbers are on the bottles so you can determine what is safe for reuse & consumption.  If you're on a budget, I really doubt you have too much to worry about with plastic jugs.

Okay, you can't really see it, but there's a "1" in that triangle.

The above tips can potentially save you time, frustration and hundreds of dollars.  In exchange I only ask that you subscribe to this blog!